[.ca] Terroir (ISBN 1840000333)

Misadvertised:
"Terroir" by Wilson is a very good book, indeed. Johnson, however, has very little to do with it; he just wrote the foreword, which he does to so many books. Wilson's book is comparable to the older "The Wines and Winelands of France, Geological Journeys" by Charles Pomerol, 1989, English language edition, a much more cut-n-dried account of much the same territory. Both are excellent sources of information for people like teachers and people who wish to gain some intellectual as well as sensory pleasure out of their vinous beverages.

Good geology, not a good title:
With a great anticipation I bought this book at the time when I was doing my PhD on terroir. To some extent, the book was a disappointment. Geology really represents only one element of terroir. Scientific evidence that would relate parent rock composition / structure to wine quality is non-existent. It is, as lawyers would say, circumstantial, not direct evidence. The role that soil type and local climate, as well as vineyard management and winemaking practices play in shaping up terroir is greatly undermined in this book. The impressive work on terroir done at INRA (the National Institute of Agronomic Research) in France by Barbeau, Asselin, Morlat and others is basically ignored. These scientists (as well as my own research) have found that physical properties of soil and subsoil, as well as local climate, are the most important factors defining terroir. However, this book does have excellent maps and a wealth of geological and regional information - so it is worth every penny on that account only. The only problem is that, in my opinion, the title is wrong. "Geology of the French vineyards", or something similar, would describe the book's content much more precisely.

A true classic for the vinophile:
If you feel that the idea of "Terroir", i.e., that the land influences the wine in such a way that it can be distinguished by taste, is foolish, read this book. The best familiar case to Americans would be Diamond Creek Vineyards. In just one small valley with four distinct microclimates, four completely different Cabernet Sauvignons result. Although the French believe this more than most Americans, that view is beginning to change - i.e., a Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is noticeably different than an Oregon Pinot Noir. This book will convince you. Terroir is real, not simply something an aesthete would appreciate.

A text for geologists, not wine lovers:
Do not buy this book if you are expecting an easy read, perhaps expanding on the "terroir" writings of Matt Kramer of Wine Spectator fame. This book spends little space discussing the actual liquid that in contained within a wine bottle. What you get instead is an in depth examination of the geology which causes differences in the finished product. The feeling that the "product" is wine, seems to have no joy to the author. To me, that is what ruins this book. I get the feeling that if the author would have had as much enthusiasm writing upon the impact of different wavelengths of light on the lima bean. Not that this book didn't accomplish what the author set out to do. Just know what you are buying.

A geologist's opinion:
I guess I was already a believer when I ordered the book, but reading it has confirmed my suspicions that terroir is a very real contributor to what makes a good vineyard capable of producing a great wine. Wilson idolizes the vigneron, and in many ways the human touch is a part of terroir, as much as the soil profile, the microclimate etc. The graphics and sidebars in this book are superb. As a practising geologist I appreciate the details but feel confident that a layman will find the book just as interesting and informative. Wilson has a sense of purpose, a sense of humor and a sense of history which all in all provide for a good read. He has inspired me to make a study of the terroirs of Texas viticulture but I doubt if the results would ever be published in such a fine form as this book.